New Teens Dress

I love clothes from the late teens era, that time during WW1 but nearing the end .  Not sure why.  I like the hats one wears, the shoes and the dresses.  Some of my favorite outfits to both make and wear have been late teens

So summer whites picnic came up and I was tired of making and wearing 40s dresses so decided to give a new teens pattern a try.  These patterns can be challenging as there are little to no instructions included.   In this case, the challenge was merely time and color.  I was unexpectedly required to go out of town for family reasons so I really had less than a week from the time I crazily decided to make a new dress to pull it off - a dress I was going to tea dye.

Front
There is also a sash which
is missing from this photo

Back

White looks bad on me.  Cream does not.  For the past couple of years I have been a good girl and mostly followed the rules of this outing by wearing white or white with black polka dots.  This year I said no to white and yes to cream.  The problem was my fabric was white.

What to do??  Dye it  with tea of course!  Not that I have ever successfully dyed anything before this.

I had waaaayyy to much fabric to dye the fabric first and wasn't sure I wanted to dye all 5 yards so I made the dress first and figured if I ran out of time I would at least have a white dress that made me look like death warmed over.

Due to the lack of time, I went for it.  It was a 38 bust pattern which I knew would be big but whatever...no time to worry.  The top is oddly patterned and I am not sure why.  The back and front is in one piece with an insert of sorts.  Weird and a little difficult to sew.

I added some tucks of course.  Love tucks and so correct for this time period.

My trip out of town was on a 6 am flight Thursday morning.  I finished the dress Wednesday night and tea dyed it at midnight Wednesday night/ Thursday morning.

Difference between original white fabric and tea dyed fabric ...... a nice cream color.

My tea dye recipe was 4 chamomile tea bags with one english breakfast bag.  I had read that black tea left an orangish hue and chamomile resulted in a  more yellow hue.  I knew I wanted some warmth from orange but not a lot.  I also left it in the bath for not more than 1/2 hour.    I really was making this up as I went.

By 2 am it was out of the dryer (the neighbors must love me!) and I had to pack for my flight.

I added the trim Saturday night upon my return.

There are no pictures of me wearing the dress as I was so sick whilst at the picnic that I wanted to crawl under our silly "period correct" table and die.

Though I do rather love the dress and cannot wait to find another reason to wear it!

Dress of Doom Revisited

Demure and ladylike with
only a bit of squinty eyes
happening

I have been sewing non-stop for the past couple of weeks.  By non-stop, I mean getting up early just to get some sewing in before going to work.  Ugh, I was getting 3-4 hours of sleep max.  With all that sewing, there was just no time to write about the sewing.

I will share what I was up to in a few days.

For now, I want to revisit the Dress of Doom: here, here, here and here.  As you may recall, I made up the Dress of Doom a year ago for the conference.  I did not get the chance to wear it.  So, when I came home it was put in the closet with no further thoughts.  Packing this year, I thought I should bring the DOD with me again as an alternative outfit.

I did end up putting it on because I wanted a picture of me in the dress, which I thought I would share with you.  I ended up wearing it for about 4 hours.  It went over quite well and I received a lot of lovely comments.  I also noticed that the buttons are sewn on in a wonderfully wavy line.  I really need to take those off and make them straight.

Back Home

Long weekend.  Saw some amazing outfits!  I wore the 1918 dress on Friday and received many compliments and a few people asked to take pictures. 

More importantly, I learned a lot of great techniques like how to grade up or down a pattern!  I plan to use that knowledge very soon.  I also learned a heirloom sewing technique that looks amazing but is quite easy!

Dress o' Doom Conquered

It is done.  The dress of doom that is.  No pictures right now because I finished it at 2:30 am and then collapsed.

Tell me why I do this because I cannot figure it out!

Pictures to come.........................

Derailed...or Welcome to the Kitty ER

I had a list of everything that needed to get done by Thursday.  Every free minute was accounted for by that list.  That was until yesterday morning when my cute little furry helper started limping.  A quick trip home to check on him at lunch showed no improvement.  When I got home for work, he started growling at me, something this cat never does.  So off we went to the kitty ER.  It was proclaimed that he is very sturdy ( I wonder if that means husky in the furry helper world).  The thought is that he was bit by a spider and given pain meds.

So there went 2+ hours of my night.  I did take my hand sewing to the kitty ER and got a little done in the waiting room. 

What is the status of the Dress o' Doom?  It is hemmed.  The collar is pinned on ready to be basted on tonight.  I did buy some buttons that I am not thrilled with but they will work.  That's it. 

BTW, the furry helper was not limping this morning and seemed to be almost back to normal.  He is still under confinement per vet's orders and he is not happy about that!

Dress of Doom Update

I am beating this thing into submission.  Nevertheless it is the Dress of Doom because every thing just goes wrong with it.  My beloved workhorse sewing machine started revolting yesterday.  Luckily, I can basically finish this up by hand.

What needs to be done? A lot.  Finish the sash.  Buy and put on buttons and button holes.  Hem the sucker.  Put on the soutache collar (ready made and from stash).  Sew down the facings.  Whew, I am tired just typing that list.

There is still a lot of work to be done but the majority is completed.  Because, that is an awful lot of green and I do not want any kermit the frog comparisons, I am placing some off white soutache on the fichu.  Ah yes, something else to be completed on this. 

My love affair with late teens fashions continue.

Dress of Doom

Seriously, that is what it has become.  Everything and I mean EVERYTHING has gone wrong.  All of those hours spent measuring and measuring for naught.  The skirt pieces are of varying lengths.  It is not long enough for the tucks I wanted.  I am going to have to do a faced hem to make this work.  I do not have time to take out the top tuck so that the skirt is longer, which I may do sometime in the future. 

The only thing that was easy was putting in the sleeves.  Again, seriously!  If sleeves are the EASY part, that gives you an inkling of what a bother this entire dress has been.

Oh yes, the dress looks fine in the pictures; you cannot see the mistakes or the misery it imposed on me.  But trust me, this is merely terrorist propaganda by the Dress of Doom to make people think I am exaggerating this situation beyond all proportions.  I am not.  Do not believe the propaganda!

I have been soooooo close to chucking the whole thing but part of me will not let me do it.  I will wrangle this beast into submission and into something I can wear if it kills me.  One of us is going down! And it better be the Dress of Doom

Want to bet I decide not to wear it cause it is too matchy with the hat since I have no time now to make additions…….hahahahaha.  But that would mean the terrorists won.

One Step Forward

The Green 1918 skirt is now cut. It took hours to piece that skirt together. The skirt is supposed to be 2 panels 36 inches wide and for me 47 ½ inches long. I was able to cut one panel with this dimension. I then had to create 2 panels approximately 18 inches wide. I actually think I will like this set up better. The pattern, with the 2 panels, means that there is a seam down the front. With the gathers it does not look horrible. But on this dress, the seams will be on either side and in the back for the opening. I kinda like this. Went through hell to get here but it is good. I think I may put in pockets; I like pockets and always forget to put them in my dresses


The panels are cut and the gathering stitches in. So, just need to sew them together with pockes, gather, hem and tuck. I CAN DO THIS! Of course, I need to throw together a corset over the weekend as well. Maybe I need to rethink that one.

I am bummed that I cant just stay home and sew this up. I have the time sucking class tonight so I will not be able to sew until tomorrow.

Huge Fail

This is why I do not like to sew hurriedly. I screw up and this time I have screwed up big time. Everything I have done on this new 1918 dress has gone horribly wrong. This is why there are no pictures. Last night was the kicker. I have barely enough fabric to maybe finish this outfit but it will require some fiddling and piecing.




Why…because I fail.



I ruined one piece with an iron. Really…how the hell did I do that? The last thing I burned with an iron was in 2000. Granted my iron sucks and is difficult to control. Usually it is not hot enough and then everyone once in a while it gets way too hot. I have been thinking about buying a new iron but just did not get around to it.

The one bit was mis-cut. Again, all me. I cannot blame a bad pattern. I was trying to do it fast and lets just call it a huge cock up. I then spent an hour last night trying to figure out how to save this project. I think I have a way, but no time to bring it about. A week to Costume College…what’s a girl to do?

What Time? What Sewing?

Time was at a premium this weekend. That does not mean that sewing did not occur. A little bit occurred. In fact,, because I knew that time would be at a premium I did not create a to do list because I knew I could not keep up.


What did I do you might ask? Well, I ripped out the cream color zipper on McCalls 5150. I will replace it with the almost matching one. It bugged me. I did get the hem measured, so I can sew that up sometime soon. I also want to lower the bust darts a tad. I don’t think I need to get into that one in detail.

The new 1918 dress got some action as well. One sleeve was set in but then I forgot about the fichu. So out came the sleeve. Tonight I am going to hem the fichu and start put it in and re-do the sleeve. That was a silly mistake.

All I can say, is that I have a lot to do in the next 2 weeks and I know I cannot finish everything I would like to finish. I do not know what I will want to wear. I am getting a little wishy washy. The Teal 1918 dress will be worn. That is the only “for sure” I have at this point.

What I Did? and Other Thoughts

Not as much as I had hoped to accomplish for 2 reasons (yes, they are merely excuses) but here they are:

1.  Spent too much time shopping on Saturday
2.  It was too hot.  When the sweat started dripping off my arm and onto the fabric it was time to STOP sewing and sit somewhere cool.

What I did accomplish:
1.  Facing has been sewed down to the bodice and the waist tape installed on the McCall's 5150.
2.  I completed putting the stays back to the way they were.  I started to move forward with the stays when the sweat fest hit and I decided to stop sewing.  I also messed it up....I didnt read the instructions...my fault.
3.  I cut out the 1918 dress view 2.  The fabric is a silk blend per my many burn tests and it was slippery hell to cut out.  I started marking the pieces so I can start sewing.

Thoughts:  It has just occurred to me that with the sewing that I have done, I have never sewed up a Simplicity pattern.  I have a bunch of these but always gravitate to other patterns when making a selection.  Odd.  I have read about problems that a lot of vintage sewists have with Simplicity patterns, is my subconscious at work?  Who knows, this is too much thinking for a Monday morning.

Agenda

Since it worked well last weekend, I want to set another agenda. 

So, McCall’s 5150 needs the facing sewed down, the waist stay put in and hemmed.  I will have no problem with the facing and the waist stay but I may need help with hemming it.  I think it will be much to hot to wear.  But I might as well finish it since it is so close to completion.  I may not bother with the facing stitching I wanted to put around the neckline and cuffs.  I can always add this another time but if I finish the dress, it can at least be worn in the meantime.

The stays I want to put back to the place where I tore them apart.  That is essentially 6 seams.  That should not take too long if I can find the correct needle.  I seem to be out of denim needles.   Though I may have some hidden away somewhere.

I think I can almost complete a dress to go with the hat this weekend if I put my mind to it.  I have decided to go with the already muslined pattern, if you call this a muslin!  I will be doing this view.  The only time consuming bit about the other dress was the hours spent sewing on the trim.  No trim planned for this one: a plain jane but flashier material.  Oh no, now I do have to pull out the bottom tub to dig out the fabric.

I was going to put a couple of other items on the list; but think this is sufficient…for now.  I also have to go to a fabric store…horrors I have been so good and have not bought fabric since June.  Need to get eyelet ruffle material for the class and will need thread to match the material.  Ah..that could take up most of Saturday.

I guess I better get cracking on something!

On a Roll

I finished my homework early!  So I have some free time tonight.  What a concept.  If only I could find one of my 5 seam rippers.  I do want to work on those stays and to do so, I have to rip some seams.

This extra free time has me thinking up more projects – like I need another idea rolling around in my head.  I already have enough fabric and project ideas to keep me busy until the end of the year.

 

One thing I pulled out this evening for inspiration, is this hat.  

I think it is perfect for a late teens/ very early 20’s dress. 

I think this fabric will be perfect with the hat.

I would show you what it looks like together but the fabric, of course, is in the bottom tub and I would have to take everything out of the closet to get to it.  So it is staying put for now.

Now a pattern: I can do a different view of the 1918 dress which would be easy for me to whip up as long as I don’t have to hand sew acres of trim.  Or should I try something different.

Decisions, decisions. 

To Do List

All the sewing I am doing is homework which is rather unsatisfying.  Trying out different stitche on 10 pieces of muslin....blah.  Yes, it is nice that I am learning these skilss but exciting not so much.

Last night I spent almost 5 hours on homework, the night before 4 hours.  Because this homework is overtaking my sewing life I need to be proactive and make a list of what I want to do Friday,Saturday and Sunday:

1.  Put the zipper in McCall's 5150.  Kelli, do not worry about sending me in the wrong direction.  The consenus is a non-descript cream/beige zipper.  I just agree with what you and everyone else who chimed in said.  And if I hate, but I know I wont, its just a zipper and easy to rip out.

2.  Put bias binding trim on the sleeves of the Mint Chip dress.  Then put the buttons on.

3.  Cut out the one piece of the 18th century stays that I mesed up the first time.  Sew as much of the stays as possible.  One side is done, just need to do the other side.  I havent blogged about this because it seems to be outside the scope of the blog but if anyone is interested, just let me know.

4.  Overcast the facings in McCall's 5150 and the 1918 dress. 

Ok, this does not seem overwhelming.  Let see how much I can get through!  I cant even think about next week's homework....add that in somewhere because it is my company's monthly event which means a killer couple of long days next week.  Maybe having this list out there in the universe will help me focus.  Normally, I dont care but I have some deadlines looming.

I am trying to stop another weekend from passing by with no work done....darn vacations!

Picture of 1918 Dress

Ok, this is not a great picture: it had been a long hot day spent in the sun and the photographer was not enthusiastic about this little photo shoot.  This is the best picture..LOL! But, I think it shows off the dress and trim.  Should have done something with my hair though...ugh.  Main construction details can be found here, here, here, here, here, and here.

Why is it so hard to look at pictures of yourself?

I am adding some additional pictures of the completed dress, including one of the back showing the pretty buttons.

Mint Chip Dress

I have started a new dress while waiting for pictures of the 1918 dress that I originally talked about here.  I decided the green swiss dot with the black spots reminds me of mint chip ice cream so this 1934 pattern is hereby dubbed the mint chip dress.

The pattern is traced and I will cut it out tomorrow night.

 

But to leave you with an idea of how the 1918 dress waistband was finished:  

1918 Dress Wrap Up

So many things have been going on in RL but most of all, I finished the 1918 dress and to be honest I feel a little let down. I finished 2 projects in one week….the 1931 dress and the 1918 dress. My motivation is gone out the door and I am not sure why. Has this happened to anyone else?


I wanted to get pictures of me in the 1918 dress over the weekend. Alas, it was not to be.

So…..I am not yet sharing the completed dress…..well maybe a peek at an almost complete stage.

Some info: I couldn’t decide how to attach the “waist” to the skirt. My 1917 dressmaking book came in handy and gave me a couple of ideas. I went with a double waistband knowing that I would be covering the waist band with a sash. I also discovered that the skirt was a tad too long. So I hacked off a couple of inches from the top of the skirt….couldnt take it from the bottom! I then used these pieces as the waistband. It worked out fine. I am glad I did not go with the casing for elastic: I really do not like elastic waistbands.

A snafu arose when it came time to do the button holes. I have never made button holes on my machine before and to say I was underwhelmed by the results would not be exaggerating. The automatic buttonhole foot made ½ of a great button hole. One side was fine, the other was spotty, no real thread coverage if that makes sense.

So….what to do? I tried the machine in a variety of ways but could not find my manual buttonhole foot…so that was out. I tried a corded buttonhole with the automatic foot….not great. I could do the buttonholes by hand, but after approximately 28 hours of hand sewing on this dress….not going to happen!

Finally, I gave in and used the automatic foot. To fill in the blank spaces, I did a hand satin stitch on the side with the holes. It was quick, down and dirty but will fine results. All in all, it took less than an hour with the handsewing. The buttons then went on with no problem. The top 2 buttons are fakes though…I didn’t want to make a button hole through the trim so I used a snap beneath the button. I like it!

The sash uses snaps to keep it closed. Again, really simple to construct.

A Welcome Distraction

Over the weekend, I came into possession of the a book published by the Pictorial Review Pattern Company in 1917 entitled “American Dressmaking Step By Step.”

It is so fascinating to read.  It provides some details missing from other sewing books I have had the opportunity to read.  There is an in depth discussion of the various plackets available and how to make and sew each placket. There is also an in depth discussion on how to make a variety of facings.  Fascinating stuff.

A couple of excerpts from the book:

“No part of a garment shows inexperienced or careless work to more disadvantage than the Placket.” 

“The Fall Ruffle is the ruffle our great-great-grandmothers displayed on most of the ferments, an, to-day, their up-to-date daughters, their children’s children, are using them in accordance with the present ideas of art, beauty, and practicability.”

I could not have received this at a better time.  It is really helpful in putting together the final stages of the 1918 dress.

Finished!!!!!

The trim for the skirt of the 1918 dress is all sewn on!

I am very excited

I dont know whether to share a picture now.........or wait until it is all completed since we are nearing the end!

The Countdown is on

For the 1918 dress.  I feel as if with every stitch now I am calculating the time it will take to finish the dress.

Famous last words but I think I can finish it by Sunday night.  It will depend on how late I have to work tomorrow night and how distracted I am during the weekend.  Though I do tend to believe that I can finish things faster than I am actually able to.

I really am at that point in the project where I want to wave my magic wand and find it done.

I would like to respond to some of the lovely comments I have received:

Debbi:  Thanks for your kind comment!

Miss Emmi:  You made my day!  I really thought I was the only one who experienced this problem.  I really cannnot tell you how much better you made me feel and I completely understand how facings can make you cry.

Aimee Marieee: It is nice to know that you relate to my process since I seem to always be a little puzzled by the pattern instructions.

Nancy: Thanks!  But it is only the trim and unfortunately no other way to get it on.  Next time I use trim it will be something I can sew on with the machine you can be sure of that.