Boning the Bodice

This 1870’s bodice is not just pieces sewn together.  There is some major construction that goes on.  First of all the “fashion” fabric is underlined.  I underlined the striped fabric with a white linen.  These two layers are sewn together.  In addition, there is also a lining to the striped fabric.  I used a heavy muslin as the lining fabric. 

Before the lining can be sewn to the bodice, the boning must be sewn in.  I chose to hand sew the boning into the bodice because it is quicker than using a machine.  With a zipper foot, this can be done on the machine but I find that I make too many mistakes with the machine and can finish the sewing in one go if I do it by hand. 

What type of boning am I using:  well it is a mixture of spiral bones and straight metal bones.  No plastic boning or cable ties in this bodice.  This also increases the weight of the bodice substantially, not just for wearing but also when finishing up the sewing.  Boning goes on all the seams and the darts for a total of 10 bones onto the striped fabric only.  The bones are then encased inside the bodice.

 

Next is to sew the lining to the bodice.  This can be tricky with the neckline ruffle.  You need to be sure to pin securely and insure that the ruffle is tucked in for a nice line.  I ran into a major problem with this step.  The lining was about 2 inches less in width than the striped fabric on one side!!!!!!!!  WTF???????

Blech….it took some finagling with darts and side seams to get the pieces to match.  This through me for a loop because it has never happened before.  Also, being on a tight deadline does not help.   Can you say panic???