Rethinking Sleeves

I gave putting in the sleeves before sewing up the sides a try.

For me, I continued with the pin basting with lots and lots and lots of pins to set in the sleeve.

Then came the sewing of I believe is the sleeve head.  Not sure of the technical term.  The sleeve set in without any fuss.  However, I do attribute the success in sewing in the sleeve to my method of pin basting.  I swear by that now.  While it was a little easier to sew, there really did not seem that much of a difference from sewing up the sleeve prior to setting it in.

Next, I finally got to sew up the sides of the bodices.  I sewed in the various directions from the bust point.  A little extra work but am unsure of the benefit.

Will I continue to sew in sleeves in this manner?  Maybe.  I will continue to give this a try for the next couple of times and then assess what will work best for me.  The first try at any new method is not sufficient to determine whether it is the best.  My instinct is to always go with tried and true methods.  So, I will need to continue to work on these techniques.

It is always good to have options and my sleeves look good!

New Techniques

My class is all about learning; so what if every book you ever read says something different.  Right?

My instructor provided some guidelines.  Always so a dart from the point in.  Always backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.  Put in the sleeve prior to joining either the sides of the bodice and the sides of the sleeve.  These are all new to me and I am giving them a try with this dress.  We also have certain directions to sew: for example from the bust point up and then from the bust point down.  Never heard of this either.

I will be honest that starting the dart at the point is not as simple as the other way around.  I also had to restrain myself from sewing up the sides of the bodice.  It just looks so unfinished this way.  But here's the front and back with the facings in

I am glad I am using an “easy’ pattern to give these techniques a try! Trying to figure out a pattern while trying to remember to do many steps differently from what I have done before would just give me a headache!  I have enough trouble trying to keep my furry helper under control.

Found

Monique and Kelli, thanks for the comments!   You will be happy to know that the missing spool of thread has been found.  It appears that a creature of the feline persuasion found the spool and thought it was a new toy.  The thread was found in a different room under a table.  No where near the sewing table.

So, yay! I did not have to use the thread that was kinda close or run out and buy more.  I was also able to cut out the McCall’s 5150 dress.  I did make a FBA on the pattern, it is my first and I think I muddled through it correctly.

I am using a turquoise cotton sateen which does have a bit of stretch in it.  It is a brighter color than I normally gravitate to, but I think it will be pretty with brown shoes and boy do I have some great brown shoes to wear with it.

I was also able to sew up the skirt which does need to hang for a few days to allow the bias to do its thing.

Missing

You know you bought thread to match the fabric.  It was on your sewing table on Wednesday night.  You picked it up and thought about taking it with you to class.  You decided against this because you knew you would need it and wanted to be able to find it easily.

It is now missing.  Nowhere to be found.  You know if you buy some more, you will find it.  But where did it disappear to???????????

Homework

Oh my!  This took me 3 hours to complete AND my homework is not finished.  This class perhaps, not the best of ideas.  At this rate, no garment sewing will occur because it looks like my homework is going to take over my life.

What about that win for Team USA this morning which means they won Group C!  Talk about cutting it close!  Now to take on Ghana on Saturday.  Thank goodness I can watch the matches at work so it doesn't interfere with the dreaded homework.

Choices

So the bias binding has been sewn in around the neck and I still have not done by homework for the class.  There seriously is not enough time in the day.

But now choices need to be made.  Button choices that is.  A button is to go at the neck and on both sleeves.  Here are the options:

Any thoughts?

To digress…..I hope the US pull off a win tomorrow at the World Cup so we can progress.  I know our team can do it if they put their minds to it.  They beat Spain last year, they can beat Algeria tomorrow.  Regardless, we need goals!!!!!!

Practice

 Here’s an update on the Mint Chip Dress.  Well, it has a collar which was nicely hemmed by a catch stitch that I needed to practice for my class.  2 1/2 hours later, I think I have the hang of it!  That hem on the collar would have taken a couple of minutes on the machine.  I put on the collar and the bias binding on the inside of the collar.  But I have not sewn down the bias binding.  I plan to practice another stitch on that since it would have to be hand sewn anyways.

I am finding this class quite a bit of work.  My instructor expects not only that you can replicate the stitches but also memorize all of the information on the stitches.  Instead of sewing, I am studying.  Not exactly what I had in mind.  I am going to have to figure out something so that I can study, sew, work out and I don’t know…maybe relax a little too!

Your eyes do not deceive you...the dress form received implants over the weekend so as to better approximate my actual measurements.  I think the placement needs to be adjusted!

Happy Father's Day

Happy Father's Day to all the fathers out there, even though I doubt even just one is reading this.

You may not have taught us how to sew, but you taught us other valuable things used in sewing like how to take apart a sewing machine and how to properly pound in a grommet!

Myra:  thanks for the comment on pinking shears.  Even after I bought them I have not been motivated to use them.  I must give it a go because they like they could be fun.  Besides, they are way too shiny and pretty looking sitting in the box.

Next Project

Being optimistic that the Mint Chip Dress will be finished today, I have selected my next project:  McCall's 5150 which is from 1959.  Need to switch it up a little from the 1930's for the moment and make something, hopefully, straight forward.  Yeah, like that ever happens.

I am planning to sew up the 3/4 sleeves since I work in an artic zone and here in the middle of summer am wearing long sleeves and 2, yes count them, 2 sweaters.  I do reserve the right to change the sleeve length depending on my mood which is very changeable when it comes to all things sewing.

I will make this up in a turquoise cotton sateen.  It is pretty but wrinkles sooooo darn easy. 

Ahhhh the excitement of a new project.

Pinking Shears

Well, I had my first couture sewing class on Thursday and since then I have not sewed.  Why you ask, because I have been running all over creation trying to find all of the supplies needed for the class.  Seriously, the entire weekend was spent trying to track down the correct ……fill in the blank.  My instructor is particular and the reason we were not given a materials list prior to the class was because he wanted to show us the exact item to get.  It has been time consuming and about 1/2 of the items I already had.

One item on the list is pinking shears.  Now, I do not have pinking shears and since I have a serger which I use very frequently, I do not see the need for pinking shears.  I polled 3 sewists that I know about whether they had pinking shears and their thoughts on the shears.  All 3 had pinking shears but only one person said she used the shears.  The other 2 said they found pinking shears to be useless.

I don’t know…I did buy a pair.  We will see if they are returned.  Hooray for 90 day return policies.

Also problematic was finding all weights of muslin.  I have heavy weight and found lightweight.  However, I need a medium weight muslin as well.  So far, I have struck out.  There are 2 additional stores I will check but not before the next class.  Seriously, the course work should be simpler than tracking down the supplies!

Tonight, I almost finished the mint chip dress.  I hope to have a final picture to share tomorrow, fingers crossed.

Class

I am taking my first ever sewing class and it starts tomorrow night!  I am more than a little nervous about this since I have not taken a class since I finished my post graduate degree a very long long time ago and vowed never to take any more classes again.  A vow I have maintained up till now.  So starting tomorrow and for 3 hours every session, I will be in a classroom setting.  Ugh.

Something I failed to notice when I signed up for the class is that a tailoring project would be assigned.  Hmmmm, I wonder if I can make it a vintage tailoring project?  Just a thought because I don’t think a modern pattern would hold my interest for very long!

Kelli:  Thanks, I will have to tell you I was shocked with the ease (no pun intended) the sleeves went in.  You will get there too! Because if I can, you can!! 

Brain:  You are so sweet…thanks as I hang my head in embarrassment and dig the toe of my shoe in the ground.

Because I didn’t get a chance to share pictures last night before sleep overtook me: let me present the sleeves on the dress:

Practice DOES Make Perfect

This is the adage that my grandmother used to always preach to me whenever I became frustrated with my inability to do something…anything. I have to say that I never thought I would be able to conquer setting in sleeves in one go. But you know what, with the Mint Chip Dress, it happened. I guess all of that practicing finally paid off…though I also have to give kudos to all those people out there who posted tutorials.

My technique is the pin method. I do not put gathering stitches in the sleeve cap. Instead I just pin the bejebbers out of it making sure that my pins are straight and there are no wrinkles on the underside. I then sew in the sleeve and leave the pins in while sewing. I know horrors….leaving in the pins but it is the only method that I have found to work for me. The key really is making sure the pins are straight and that there are no wrinkles and use as many pins as humanly possible!

Seriously it works but practice really is required. I hate to tell you that the first sleeves I tried to set in, I just gave up and put in some cute little pleats with the decision that this is the way it was meant to be. A year later, with much practice, I managed to set in the sleeves on the first go with no ripping out of seams! Yay me! And I rarely say that.

Sleeve Fail

I don’t mean setting in the sleeve.  What I am talking about is some decorative pleating on the sleeve.  A couple of hours in, basting, pulling out basting stitches and then re-basting, I knew that I was utterly and completely lost.  The instructions….no help.  I am looking at instruction numbers 29 and 30 with the accompanying picture.

Went back to the pattern to check if I missed some markings…nope, they are all there and accounted for.  Here is the pattern piece, note that it looks nothing like the instructions.  Hmmm….what am I missing?

 

Stare at the pattern some more.  Finally, give up for a little while.

Returned and tried folding everything differently.  Then the light bulb went off…well not exactly, I realized that there was just one combination that I had not tried and sure enough it seems to have worked.

 

That took much more effort than anticipated.  Setting in the sleeves will be simple in comparison.

Shopping Spree

A friend asked me to go shopping for soccer jerseys with him.  I agreed with the provision that since we will be so close to my favorite fabric stores that I get to stop in and do a little shopping.  Boy, did I shop!

I found a lot that I liked including this brown wool.

Mostly, as I am wont to do, stayed with the cottons.

I also bought this trim because it was only $2 for the whole shebang in addition to some black and brown lining fabrics.

 
I think I need to find a way to use these 2 together.

Picture of 1918 Dress

Ok, this is not a great picture: it had been a long hot day spent in the sun and the photographer was not enthusiastic about this little photo shoot.  This is the best picture..LOL! But, I think it shows off the dress and trim.  Should have done something with my hair though...ugh.  Main construction details can be found here, here, here, here, here, and here.

Why is it so hard to look at pictures of yourself?

I am adding some additional pictures of the completed dress, including one of the back showing the pretty buttons.

Grinding Halt

Yup, that’s what happened with the Mint Chip Dress.  The next step was to place 1 inch wide ribbon belting around the waist.  Hmmm while not sure what ribbon belting is do, do you think petersham?  I have decided to use grosgrain ribbon.  Great, don’t have any grosgrain in a light color.

Ok, can work on the sleeves.  But no, there are no marks on the sleeves.  I used a pen to mark the sleeves, you know one of those pens where the marks go away with water.  Well, they have disappeared.  I just checked, yup water to remove ink; there is no mention about the marks just disappearing.  I made sure not to use the type of pen where the marks disappear just by air exposure.  I just don’t feel like re-marking the sleeves tonight.

All I accomplished was to remove the inset that was a little off and re-sew that back into place…..arghh.

Problems

The Mint Chip Dress came along swimmingly over the weekend. However, I perceive some problems on the horizon. First, I cannot figure out how to completely attach the bodice to the skirt. It appears that some directions are missing. There is an explanation of how to attach the back bodice to the skirt but not the front bodice. Maybe it is supposed to be a modified wrap dress? I am flummoxed to say the least. I also think something is missing because there is an instruction 17 and 17a but no 17 b. Second, the neck hole is teeny. I could barely fit my head through and my head is on the small side! I have never seen a neckline so small outside of children’s clothing. Third is a problem of my own making. I do not like how one of the insets is a little off center…must fix….will go crazy if don’t fix.

Here’s a look but please forgive all the threads.


 There is a lot of basting and stay stitching in this dress and I have not yet removed any. In fact, there is too much topstitching for my liking and all seams except side seams are basted in first! However, I will admit that I like the look and it didn’t take too much extra time. So next time I poopoo basting, I need to be reminded of this experience.

I also really need to pad out this form to be as busty as I am!

Happy Memborial Day

Have you been sewing this Memorial Day Weekend? I have, just a little but the MInt Chip Dress is coming along. Alas, no pictures because I left the camera tether thing at home.

Thank goodness that my sewing machine is so portable, I can take it with me should I feel I want to.

Curses ...Foiled

This morning I cut out the Mint Chip Dress. I knew that fabric would be tight. I did a lot of maneuvering with the fabric, staying on grain, to place the pattern pieces. I was so concerned, that I cut out the pieces in an order so that if I had to piece, it would be on the pieces that would not be so obvious. I also shortened the skirt length a lot as well. The skirt out of the package was floor length. Even to get it ankle length like on the pattern drawing, at least 3 inches needed to come off. I think I took about 6 inches off and could have gone shorter. Given the paucity of fabric, perhaps I should have done this.

Alas, when I came to the ties on the dress, there was not enough fabric to even cut one out with out many many pieces making up the tie.

So…..some quick thinking occurred. I had already planced to make the collar out of black. So what about the ties out of black as well. I liked the idea but I do not like the black fabric I have on hand for the ties. The collar it is ok for but not the ties. Instead, I tried some white swiss dot that I had on hand and really, that did not make me happy either. The fabric was the correct weigh but ugh not a great color combination. The black just looks better to my eye.

I scrounged around for a while and the only other black I have is a black pique left over from the Halloween costume. That isn’t the best fabric choice either and I do not like the pique with the swiss dot.

A decision had to be made and I am going with the linen type black fabric.

Mint Chip Dress

I have started a new dress while waiting for pictures of the 1918 dress that I originally talked about here.  I decided the green swiss dot with the black spots reminds me of mint chip ice cream so this 1934 pattern is hereby dubbed the mint chip dress.

The pattern is traced and I will cut it out tomorrow night.

 

But to leave you with an idea of how the 1918 dress waistband was finished:  

1918 Dress Wrap Up

So many things have been going on in RL but most of all, I finished the 1918 dress and to be honest I feel a little let down. I finished 2 projects in one week….the 1931 dress and the 1918 dress. My motivation is gone out the door and I am not sure why. Has this happened to anyone else?


I wanted to get pictures of me in the 1918 dress over the weekend. Alas, it was not to be.

So…..I am not yet sharing the completed dress…..well maybe a peek at an almost complete stage.

Some info: I couldn’t decide how to attach the “waist” to the skirt. My 1917 dressmaking book came in handy and gave me a couple of ideas. I went with a double waistband knowing that I would be covering the waist band with a sash. I also discovered that the skirt was a tad too long. So I hacked off a couple of inches from the top of the skirt….couldnt take it from the bottom! I then used these pieces as the waistband. It worked out fine. I am glad I did not go with the casing for elastic: I really do not like elastic waistbands.

A snafu arose when it came time to do the button holes. I have never made button holes on my machine before and to say I was underwhelmed by the results would not be exaggerating. The automatic buttonhole foot made ½ of a great button hole. One side was fine, the other was spotty, no real thread coverage if that makes sense.

So….what to do? I tried the machine in a variety of ways but could not find my manual buttonhole foot…so that was out. I tried a corded buttonhole with the automatic foot….not great. I could do the buttonholes by hand, but after approximately 28 hours of hand sewing on this dress….not going to happen!

Finally, I gave in and used the automatic foot. To fill in the blank spaces, I did a hand satin stitch on the side with the holes. It was quick, down and dirty but will fine results. All in all, it took less than an hour with the handsewing. The buttons then went on with no problem. The top 2 buttons are fakes though…I didn’t want to make a button hole through the trim so I used a snap beneath the button. I like it!

The sash uses snaps to keep it closed. Again, really simple to construct.

Pictures of the 1931 Dress

I think I have talked this one to death.  I went with the rolled hem on the bottom which I quite like and do not care if it is not period correct.  It is a little wonky but the fabric is so slippery, hemming was a challenge.  I pressed the bejebbers out of the curves and finally got them to lay flat.  The placket…I still have issues with but will consider the dress done even if I do go back and fiddle with the placket .

It's Not Over Until There Are Pictures

Well the 1931 dress is done, finished, complete….over. But no pictures until tonight. I left my camera at work because I was photographing possible office space. If you are interested in the final photos, tune in tonight!

I don’t know about you, but when I complete a dress, I oftentimes am so sick of it, I need to put it away for a little while. I have to say that this was a tough dress. The silk chiffon was a pain to sew. I am still not 100% happy with the placket and may work on that sometime later. I will need to make a slip to go underneath. I have some brown china silk set aside for this…oh YAY….more slippery silk! So not looking forward to that. I think I will give the magic bias slip a go for the slip since it is a 30’s slip pattern.

In response to the comment from Cinquefoil…both hats are black. Cannot wait for them to arrive.

Feeling Better............

Ran out an purchased the snaps.  I am feeling better about them.  I think the hooks and eyes were a) defective - they were not clicking into place and b) with defective hooks and eyes coupled with very lightweight gauzy (read flimsy) fabric, the placket was floating apart.

The snaps should reign in the fabric and keep everything closed up.

Spinning My Wheels

I just do not seem to be getting anywhere fast and it is frustrating. The hooks and eyes I bought for the 1931 dress just do not seem to be doing the trick. They are not staying closed. So off to buy some teeny tiny snaps. I think the snaps will work better. I am just tired of fiddling with these hooks and eyes.


Seriously, I fail. It just shouldn’t be this hard or this frustrating. I am so tempted to call in sick just so that I can finish these two dresses.

Soooo with no further ado, some eye candy of the two vintage hats purchased yesterday:

They are pretty..no?  I love them and cannot wait for them to arrive. 

A Welcome Distraction

Over the weekend, I came into possession of the a book published by the Pictorial Review Pattern Company in 1917 entitled “American Dressmaking Step By Step.”

It is so fascinating to read.  It provides some details missing from other sewing books I have had the opportunity to read.  There is an in depth discussion of the various plackets available and how to make and sew each placket. There is also an in depth discussion on how to make a variety of facings.  Fascinating stuff.

A couple of excerpts from the book:

“No part of a garment shows inexperienced or careless work to more disadvantage than the Placket.” 

“The Fall Ruffle is the ruffle our great-great-grandmothers displayed on most of the ferments, an, to-day, their up-to-date daughters, their children’s children, are using them in accordance with the present ideas of art, beauty, and practicability.”

I could not have received this at a better time.  It is really helpful in putting together the final stages of the 1918 dress.

Now Its a Dress

It should have been easy but it wasn’t.  It should not have taken much time to accomplish, but it did.

The 1931 is now officially a dress.  The bodice is now attached to the skirt and it only took 3 tries.  I needed to sew them together close enough to the edge so the bodice was caught and so that there was no gaping by the skirt.  The first try was too far away.  The second try was too wavy…nothing straight going on there.  The third try was acceptable.  I might have gone for a fourth try if the time had not gotten away from me. 

That’s ok, I couldn’t have gone farther since I need some hooks and eyes as closures.  If only I had the right hook and eye tape, I would use that.  But I only have black and grey hook and eye tape. 

No I haven’t forgotten about the 1918 dress.  I just want to be able to spend some significant time with it so the weekend looks good.

All Bound Up

After a couple of hours of procrastination, I decided to work on the 1931 dress for a change.  It has been in the same state for a month.  Next up is the neckline.  Bias binding required.

Now, I have a love/hate relationship with bias binding.  I love it when it is done.  I hate it when I have to make the strips and sew them together.  Why you ask?  Well because I have to go back to my sewing books each time to figure out how to sew the strips together.  This time was no exception.

The pattern instructions make the binding of the neckline sound so very easy but really it was a foreign language I don’t speak.  The first bit was fine:  Hold binging toward you and stretch binding around curve.”  Ok, will do but my binding is not stretching.  I know it should but its not!

 

Second bit is in another language:  “Roll binding to inside, miter at point, turn in raw edge and fell to position.”  Hmmm think I get what the intent it, but fell to position?  What in the world does that mean?  I tried to miter at point and failed miserably.

The bias binding is pinned in even though I don’t know how to finish it off.

Then the sewing commenced.  First seam in after pinning it twice.  Ironing, check.  Folded it over to make a teeny tiny facing.  But now because my bias binding seems to be of different sizes and because I fail miserably at bias binding creation, I am not going to be able to finish it off on the machine.  What you will see is a seam with its passport in hand traveling all over the bodice.  To say it would look wonky would be an exaggeration.

Thus, more hand sewing commenced.  It was quick this time and really does the trick.   My failure at the miter means I have more of a scoop neck now rather than a “v’ neck but hey I can definitely live with that adjustment.  Overall, I do like how it turned out particularly given the flimsy nature of the fabric.

Good Intentions

Life is full of good intentions, the key is trying to act on them.  I guess I need to go back to my 30 minutes of sewing a night so that my good intentions become actions.


All day yesterday while at work, I kept contemplating what I was going to work on in the sewing room. I was antsy to get home so of course I had to stay a little late which meant a lot of traffic. I got home to a stopped up drain and a tv that was not working. So time is spent trying to unstop the drain and then clean up the shower. Too much time spent on the phone with the cable company. To top it off was a mini allergy attack and a cat who ran amuck in the bedroom.

By the time I had everything in working order again, there was still time to sew but I just could not motivate myself to move. I feel like it is rinse, repeat and lather today. I am sitting at my desk making plans on the progress I will make tonight. I can finish the 1931 dress if I put my mind to it!

Pictures of what I accomplished….tonight…..

Happy Mother’s Day

To all the mothers out there, I hope you had a great day!

In other news….the sleeves are finished which means there is no more trim to sew on!!  Watch me do a happy dance!  I did run out of silver trim on the last bit of the sleeve, wouldn’t you know it!  So I had to run to the trim store today which turned out to be a bad idea.  Everyone and their closest relatives were out and about.  There was no parking.  I had to stop in a loading zone and run into get my measly 1 yard of trim of which I only needed a portion.  However, it was better to brave the crowds rather than wait until next weekend to be able to finish the last bit of sleeve.

It should be easy here on out…just a waistband, sash, buttons and buttonholes.  Whew that looks like more that it really is depending on how hard the buttonholes are to put in which may be very hard indeed since I have yet to be successful with buttonholes.

Baby steps.  Attaching bodice and skirt to a waistband is up next.

Finished!!!!!

The trim for the skirt of the 1918 dress is all sewn on!

I am very excited

I dont know whether to share a picture now.........or wait until it is all completed since we are nearing the end!

The Countdown is on

For the 1918 dress.  I feel as if with every stitch now I am calculating the time it will take to finish the dress.

Famous last words but I think I can finish it by Sunday night.  It will depend on how late I have to work tomorrow night and how distracted I am during the weekend.  Though I do tend to believe that I can finish things faster than I am actually able to.

I really am at that point in the project where I want to wave my magic wand and find it done.

I would like to respond to some of the lovely comments I have received:

Debbi:  Thanks for your kind comment!

Miss Emmi:  You made my day!  I really thought I was the only one who experienced this problem.  I really cannnot tell you how much better you made me feel and I completely understand how facings can make you cry.

Aimee Marieee: It is nice to know that you relate to my process since I seem to always be a little puzzled by the pattern instructions.

Nancy: Thanks!  But it is only the trim and unfortunately no other way to get it on.  Next time I use trim it will be something I can sew on with the machine you can be sure of that.

Ignore the wrinkles

The hand sewing continues and continues and continues.

Here is where I am now - skirt almost finished.  Ahhhh....can I see the light at the end of the tunnel......maybe.

Happy Cinco de Mayo

I hope everyone is having some chips and guacamole with a margarita or 2. I know a plate of something yummy is part of my evening plans.


My internet access has been sporadic. However, after 2 men spent 2+ hours rewiring my house, it seems to be working ok. However, my TV is now experiencing some issues. Sigh……….

So let me reply to some comments!!

Suffragette: I am in your camp; I would let a project languish forever with the problems I encountered with this one. However, a friend of mine kept pushing me to finish it. It is only because of her the dress was not tossed! LOL ….the wiggling. That’s why I made the full skirted version. Wiggle dresses kind of scare me.

Mischief: It is a pretty dress. Are you making the full skirted dress version or the wiggle dress version? I don’t think you will have problems with the pattern, I have not heard of any others who did. However, if I can be any help, just let me know!

Atomic Mum: Hi and welcome!



So…..what have I been sewing I bet you are wondering. Wonder no more. I am trekking along on the trim for the 1918. I think the trim will be finished by this weekend....woo hoo! Other than that, I have been doing some late spring cleaning. Sewing had to take a back seat. Pictures maybe

Pictures of the Butterick Dress

I was finally update the pictures of the Butterick Dress but in case no one wants to go backwards to find them......here they are:

2 up close pictures of the bodice with the dreaded facings